How Many Extension Cords Can You Connect Together
We have a xxx amp fifteen' foot shore string and 30 amp 20' foot extension cord, and I'g all the same defective xv' feet. Tin can I add a 3rd 30 amp extension string to make up the departure? Nosotros will be running a rooftop A/C unit of measurement, and so that'due south why I want to make sure that we accept enough amps at that distance.
Too, we will be using a 30 amp dogbone at the outlet. Thank you!
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Too check all the connectedness points at the ext. cords from time to time for backlog heat.
Yous can run as much every bit you want but every additional foot will add together to voltage driblet. Monitor the voltage or become an autoformer.
Regards, Don
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It's one of those things you'll just accept to try yourself to find out for sure.
ScottG wrote:
I would monitor the voltage while ht due east AC is running. Close it down if too low.
I have an Air-conditioning Voltage Line Meter, so I volition exercise that for sure
ScottG wrote:
Too check all the connectedness points at the ext. cords from fourth dimension to time for excess heat.
I assume that excess oestrus at the connection points is a sign that the voltage is too depression? That's one reason why I'm using a dogbone instead of those inexpensive adaptor plugs that DO get HOT.
pianotuna wrote:
or get an autoformer.
I've never heard of the autoformer. I did a quick google and found the Hughes Autoformer. Looks like a overnice setup.
The heat generated by a poor connexion is what does it .
Your connexion would exist out in the open up and you can tell by feeling if the extra connection is not a tight fit .
A 30 amp cord requires # 10 guage wire .
That cord is the larger diameter simply like the pigtail coming from your trailer .
Because # x guage 30 amp cablevision is so much more expensive and wieldy some effort to extend their run with the more mutual 14 guage or 12 guage cord .
The trouble is that at higher amperage flows the smallest diameter cord restricts the overall current menses .
The best solution is probably using only # 10 guage fifty-fifty if you have an extra junction .
Of class a single # 10 guage say 50 feet long would be the best solution .
jaycocreek wrote:
Bottom line is, glad I had my 3k Honda gen considering information technology wouldn't pull my 13.5 air with everything else off.
I'grand really tempted to get a 3K generator. Besides the travel trailer, it would come in handy for MANY uses.
Lowsuv wrote:
Of class a single # x guage say 50 feet long would be the best solution .
Are yous saying that #10 hooked to the RV shore string would be doable?
It would really aid to not have every bit many extension cords, equally each connection tin can take a 1/ii - ane volt drop across the receptacle and plug.
Do they have an electric dryer? If it is 4 wire, you can buy a 4 wire plug at Dwelling Depot, a plastic junction box, blank embrace, some wire nuts, and 50' or then of extension cord (might be less expensive to buy a fifty' roll of #10 romex) then connect a thirty amp RV power receptacle at the very terminate.
On the dryer cord, you want to use the green ground, white neutral wire to the white wire on the extension cord, and one of the two red or black wires (but only 1 as you do not need 220 volts). Record off the scarlet wire, if you volition exist using the black one. Put all these connections in a plastic box with the blank cover and use the very big blueish wire nuts to make these #10 wire connections.
At the end of the extension string, use the 30 amp RV receptacle. You will notice that in that location is a LOT more contumely in the xxx amp plug and receptacle than a typical habitation xv amp receptacle. This leads to less voltage loss, and much improve connexion, less probable to overheat.
If the dryer only is three wire, then it would not be safe to connect your RV to this type of receptacle, as there is no defended neutral wire.
What I did one time. Plug into the pits at Bowling Green Race track. They had some #two wire overhead connected to #10 wire that goes downwardly the power pole to a pair of 120 volt home size xv amp receptacles - no fuses though. I plugged in a 50' long #14 extension cord across the parking lot, to a #12 25' string with some other 30' #10 cord to my transformer that boosted 100 volts to 112. Then plugged my 30' motorhome cord into that transformer. Then near 145' full including the cords to the transformer.
I also needed to monitor the voltage, equally information technology did drop, even with the booster plugged in. At 105 volts, I would recommend shutting off the A/C unit. Over 105, information technology will be fine.
WHen I lived on a farm, I was nearly 300' from the main house, on a ability line to the pump building. It had a 30 amp excursion billow at the house feeding $viii wires down to the pump building. I plugged in there, and would have 120 volts. IF I ran my microwave, the indicated voltage dropped near 12 volts. Running the A/C resulted in a xv volt drib, so I predicted that I had about one volt drib per amp being used. Past using the transformer, I got back to 132 volts (way to high to plug in the refrigerator to that voltage) and could run the A/C and all the same read about 118 volts with it on. I did not worry about the Goggle box or other appliances having 132 volts, only heaters and the refrigerator.
And then getting a Hughes Autoformer or other booster transformer volition solve your problem, and allow you use the 120 volt 15 amp receptacle on the side of the house. (yep it is but rated at fifteen amps even if connected to a 20 amp breaker). It volition as well assist out if y'all are using the dryer receptacle adapter, and still had low voltage.
If yous find that y'all are plugging into the house outside receptacle, and when y'all plough on the A/C trip the circuit breaker merely to detect out that 1/ii the house or the bedroom receptacles are on the same circuit, you can normally safely plug in the laundry room - it has had 2 each xx amp circuits to it if the habitation was built later 1965, per NEC codes.
Adept luck,
Fred.
Information technology is probably only a 20amp or even 15amp excursion, may fifty-fifty be GFCI protected. Even using heavy duty 30amp rated extensions, y'all will still be limited to the fifteen or 20 amps available at the firm outlet.
You lot peradventure able to run the Air-conditioning, but make sure that your fridge is set to propane only. Limit all other 120 usage. Converter may also exist a factor, peculiarly if merely 15 amps available, as well size of Air-conditioning 13500 or 15000 unit.
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Fred.
Beverley&Ken wrote:
" their closest standard 120V outside outlet is located"
It is probably simply a 20amp or even 15amp excursion, may even be GFCI protected. Even using heavy duty 30amp rated extensions, you volition still exist limited to the 15 or 20 amps available at the house outlet.
You mayhap able to run the AC, just make sure that your fridge is set to propane merely. Limit all other 120 usage. Converter may also be a factor, specially if only 15 amps available, also size of AC 13500 or 15000 unit.
Beverley and Ken
x2. If yous accept a 15amp outlet yous probably won't be able to run either size A/C. I have run my 13.5kBtu A/C off a 20amp outlet earlier simply aught else on except the converter. If you're in the NM mountains you probably won't demand the A/C.
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PenMan wrote:
Beverley&Ken wrote:
" their closest standard 120V outside outlet is located"
Information technology is probably only a 20amp or fifty-fifty 15amp circuit, may even be GFCI protected. Even using heavy duty 30amp rated extensions, you will still exist express to the 15 or 20 amps available at the house outlet.
Yous perchance able to run the Ac, simply make sure that your refrigerator is gear up to propane merely. Limit all other 120 usage. Converter may also be a cistron, particularly if only 15 amps available, also size of Air conditioning 13500 or 15000 unit of measurement.
Beverley and Ken
x2. If you have a 15amp outlet you probably won't be able to run either size A/C. I have run my 13.5kBtu A/C off a 20amp outlet earlier but zilch else on except the converter. If you're in the NM mountains you probably won't need the A/C.
And don't forget that in that location may be things in the house on the circuit y'all're plugging in to. Very few such outlets are on defended circuits.
" Not every mind that wanders is lost. " With apologies to J.R.R. Tolkien
PenMan wrote:
x2. If you take a 15amp outlet you probably won't exist able to run either size A/C. I have run my 13.5kBtu A/C off a 20amp outlet before simply nothing else on except the converter.
I think we're going to buy a generator. I'm going to showtime a new thread asking people for their experience and opinions comparing the Honda EU3000iS and Yamaha EF3000iSEB.
PenMan wrote:
If you're in the NM mountains y'all probably won't need the A/C.
There'southward non a huge need for A/C here at seven,000 anxiety. The log home that nosotros are building will have a walkout basement, which is where we would sleep if the temps did get warm. Just with 10" logs, nosotros should go on adequately cool. Needless to say, in that location will non be an A/C in our home.
I do the aforementioned affair with some other 50-foot (ten-three) extension cord where my other trailer is plugged in. This plugs into a unlike 120VAC zone in the garage that has a dissimilar circuit breaker. My RV30A-15A long dogbone type adapter is located between the two 10-GA cables actually laying on the ground.
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Doesn't drop my Air conditioning voltage all that much... Both my 13,500BTU A/C's works just fine. When running my 13,500BTU Air Conditioner and I turn on something else that is rated loftier wattage like the microwave information technology volition trip the garage breaker.
What I do in both my trailers is use one of these RV 120VAC PLUG-IN VOLTMETERS. If the 120VAC Voltage is not within the GREEN Safe SCALE then I will non plow on anything that is high wattage in the trailers.
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Roy Ken
* This mail service was edited 05/31/14 eleven:29am by RoyB *
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dieselenthusiast wrote:
PenMan wrote:
x2. If you have a 15amp outlet you probably won't exist able to run either size A/C. I have run my 13.5kBtu A/C off a 20amp outlet before but zippo else on except the converter.
I think we're going to buy a generator. I'yard going to start a new thread asking people for their experience and opinions comparing the Honda EU3000iS and Yamaha EF3000iSEB. .
Or,you could look upwards,sesrch Honda,Yamaha.........Generators..AND SPEND ,A COUPLE DAYS. Readiing what is already been discussed.....![[emoticon]](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/blogger_img_proxy/AEn0k_sD0AHjs5IzDXstyMyfZG8Qq7EwdoVJSG1ZlOErOTJPP6_u3Etip-RznDIiIrcwCMhhBT3Vcm4Oo4VtkyJbVJGBv7M1Ge7Q6VDVov7Q7yqHh-XyeuuDfn0=s0-d "smile")
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If yous are looking to cord all these cords together, plug into a Standard outlet..(.your words...)......and Run A.C........ Prepare for a melted puddle of insulation Somewhere...........Way too much Load,draw,resistance, for 15,xx amp plug....![[emoticon]](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/blogger_img_proxy/AEn0k_seEyfGWjR0EFW0gPVXFTqfRSkbwb89r8AAMA108WkZwgo7o5pgqvMCF60A4Q95NKb0v4grr1M6pM7t1KlbRBzCLNsTxHwEYKw8SYeMmNVLcklN0Rk=s0-d "eek")
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That'south the trouble. Typically information technology will be ane of many 15A outlets on a 20A CB. How long is the circuit to the outside plug? What is likely to be turned on inside the firm?
It's marginal to run a AC and you lot may well have low voltage peculiarly if something else in the house is turned on.
And it could be a 15A CB with 14ga wire.
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The voltage in the house could be anywhere betwixt 127 and 115 VAC. This will depend where the house is on the ability company'southward distribution feeder. If it is 127 you should have no problem, but watch the connectors for heating. If it is 115 vac you volition likely have a problem that no "reasonable" sized cord will help with.
Don't worry about the brusque run of #14 wire in the firm. It should be rated to the circuit breaker and will carry the current. The length with respect to voltage drop volition be short.
Likewise, the incoming voltage to the business firm can vary with time of twenty-four hours. In areas where at that place is heavy load on the feeder from heating or air conditioning, the voltage tin can drop when the load is highest. This is why some appliances can have trouble only at certain times.
If you do use an auto transformer be sure it has good control and voltage monitoring. If you installed a stock-still type as nd set it to boost when incoming voltage is low and air conditioning running, information technology could be too high at another fourth dimension. Electronics will neglect, frequently, at 132 VAC.
Longer runs require heave wire to carry the same load.
The link should help.
In that location are many other links on the spider web..
# 10 guage hooked to the shore ability cable would exist simply fine .
Well-nigh folks are using a # 12 guage considering they are readily bachelor at wally globe , homer dee poe , and Lowes .
a # 12 guage is a twenty amp cord .
# 14 is 15 amp cord .
The # 10 are harder to find and fashion more expensive .
And way less flexible .
* This post was edited 06/02/14 01:12am by Lowsuv *
dieselenthusiast wrote:
When nosotros take the travel trailer to the in-laws, we are lacking some distance from where our trailer can park vs. where their closest standard 120V outside outlet is located.
Are y'all saying you would be plugging into a "standard" xv amp duplex receptacle? If yep, you lot can't exercise that. If you desire to run an AC unit too, yous will need 30 amps. If you look at the panel within your unit of measurement, yous volition probably find that the AC has a 20 amp breaker and you'll need a minimum of twenty amps for simply the Ac.
Even if not running an AC unit, plugging into a fifteen amp receptacle and extension cord can cause problems. Start of all, yous should ever plug in the shore power cord(s) when the power is turned off. Piece of cake to practise in a campground at the pedestal, just in a house, yous'd need to go to the panel. If y'all are going to exercise this a lot, I'd brand up a disconnect switch that tin can exist plugged into the extension string or add a switch at the recept. at the house. The converter has a momentary inrush electric current that causes pitting on the blades of plugs and internally inside receptacles& connectors. The pitting attracts clay which leads to an increment in resistance and eventually enough heat to cause a meltdown. The inrush is the zap you can hear and in the nighttime, a flash. You should make sure the blades are kept clean with a scotchbrite pad or sandpaper. 15 amp extension cords can hands go upwardly in fume from the heat (equally I take found out twice in our driveway).
If you are plugging into a 30 amp receptacle, iii thirty amp extension cords together will not be a problem unless there is a low voltage situation. I would as well bank check the voltage at the house receptacle before turning the Air conditioning on to see if it is depression to offset with. You should normally be close to 120 volts within the house, but depending on where you are located and another factors, in the heat of the summer, if a lot of people in the neighborhood are running AC units, the voltage tin drib quite a flake. Yous could read the AC unit's manual simply mostly when you become downwards to 105 volts, the AC unit can be damaged. At the very least, I would get a electric line voltage monitor that plugs into a receptacle such as the Camco one, and proceed an heart on the voltage inside your camper. Using a dogbone adapter is always a good idea.
myredracer wrote:
At the very to the lowest degree, I would get a power line voltage monitor that plugs into a receptacle such as the Camco one, and keep an eye on the voltage inside your camper. Using a dogbone adapter is ever a practiced idea.
Nosotros've already decided to purchase a Yamaha EF3000iSEB generator. This will take care of a lot of unknowns when using the A/C. We already have ii types of power line voltage meters for monitoring. Thanks for the respond.
Grandpere wrote:
If it were me, I would purchase 50 feet of 6 gauge, three wire cord and add 30 amp ends to information technology. Y'all will not have near the ability loss as with standard 10 approximate 30 amp cord and the price should not be that dissimilar than purchasing a prepare made string. In all my wiring, whether in out onetime TTs or in our Due south&B I always go with the next size bigger wire (next number size smaller), the price difference is worth the slice of mind I get from knowing I accept ample capacity.
Was that an intended pun? ![[emoticon]](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/blogger_img_proxy/AEn0k_vwkoDuJq-GqsHEie9-Cgg6qBJ0kl4iKCJc_LG3pcut800du3fCY1rhf07E9ALJ8XW83j2XvWck4PScpe5CWztE7b79TqevxYm7ObNaTWCcMRoj5DMl3A=s0-d "wink")
Good one! along with your suggestion.
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